When we lived in Singapore (2014-2016), we joined the Friends of the Museums’ Couples Book Club. In October seven couples from that book club gathered together in Istanbul for another meeting. The couples: Susan and Woody (US), Pat and Ray (US), Gloverson and Annelise (US/Brazil), Gulcin and Phil (Australia), Jenni and Eric (US), Jane and Sunder (SG), and Elise and Renato (US).
The idea for meeting in Istanbul came about because a few of us wanted to meet Gulcin and Phil in the city where Gulcin was born. Once we decide on dates (11-18 October 2024), other couples gladly decided to join us.
We met a couple of times on Zoom to discuss issues such as hotels, transportation in Istanbul, what to do, and to catch up on what everyone was currently doing. On a trip, several years ago, Susan and Woody had stayed at the Hotel Dersaadet Istanbul, and recommended staying there. Soon, everyone booked there!
treated to apple tea and Turkish Delights.
looking toward Asia.
of Dersaadet Hotel on our first night.
Highlights
The #1 highlight was getting back together with our group of friends. Everyone got along with everyone and had plenty of time to reconnect. I believe we would have had a great time no matter where we met but Istanbul just enhanced the trip, especially for those of us who were first timers in the country.
Walking Tour #1
Gulcin had arranged 2 days of guided tours with Diana Misir.
the book we read for our meeting
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque – Originally built as a cathedral in 537 AD, it was converted into a mosque in 1453 following the Ottoman conquest. In 1935, it was secularized and turned into a museum, only to be re-converted into a mosque in 2020.
support rods seen throughout the building.
we were not allowed to enter
Emperor John II Komnenos and his wife.
is for adherents, entering the mosque, to wash.
Blue Mosque – The Blue Mosque is officially known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. It was completed in 1616 during the rule of Sultan Ahmed I, and is known for its architecture and interior adorned with blue Iznik tiles, which give it the name “Blue Mosque.”
Basilica Cistern – The Basilica Cistern is a very old underground water reservoir constructed in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Known as the “Cistern of the Sunken Palace,” this vast subterranean structure features 336 marble columns arranged in a grid pattern. Once used to supply water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and other buildings.
There are Medusa heads used as column bases and contemporary sculptures scattered around the complex. In addition, the columns are of varying design, some plain and some with interesting designs.
Grand Bazaar – This place is a warren of passages and shops, and it seem like it would be easy to get lost. During a stop for coffee, our guide led Pat and me to a yarn shop Pat had on her list of place to visit. Without our guide, we probably wouldn’t have found our way back to our group. Thank you, Diana!
Süleymaniye Mosque and Mausoleum of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent – “The Süleymaniye Mosque … is a grand architectural masterpiece commissioned by Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent and designed by the renowned Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. Completed in 1557, this mosque is one of the largest in Istanbul and exemplifies the classical Ottoman style with its soaring domes, elegant minarets, and expansive courtyard. Adjacent to the mosque is the Mausoleum of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, where the Sultan and his wife, Roxelana, are interred. The complex not only serves as a place of worship but also as a symbol of the Sultan’s reign and the cultural zenith of the Ottoman Empire. Its serene gardens, intricate calligraphy, and breathtaking views of the Golden Horn make it a must-visit for those exploring the rich history and architecture of Istanbul.”
We first visited the Mausoleum. Then, before entering the Mosque, we visited the gardens, overlooking the Golden Horn.
Egyptian/Spice Bazaar – The bazaar is renowned for its vast array of spices, herbs, teas, dried fruits, nuts, and other exotic foodstuffs, along with beautiful ceramics, textiles, and souvenirs. We were there twice and each time it was very crowded.
This made for a long day with tired feet and some still with jet lag.
For dinner, we had reservations at Hamdi Restaurant ( Eminönü), where we had a good, set-menu, dinner and celebrated Woody’s birthday.
After our dinner, we returned to the hotel to discuss the book (as all good book clubs shouls). In addition, we again celebrated Woody’s birthday, with shout-outs to others with birthdays in October and November.
book club in Singapore (returned with Jane and Sunder)
Walking Tour #2
The following day, the guided tour began with a tram ride (we all learned about tram tickets and how to buy and top the up) to the Balat area of Istanbul. This area is also known as the Jewish Quarter, and consists of, not only synagogues, but many mosques and churches. The streets were narrow and many were very steep. It was a very enjoyable walk, and included stops at the Surp Hresdagabed Balat Armenian Church, the Patriarchal Church of St. George, a snack break at Kaffa Miro. In addition, we saw the colored houses of Balat, and Bulgarian Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church.
of the many fires that destroyed one of the previous
versions of the church.
he colored houses
Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church
Stephen’s Orthodox Church
the Bulgarian Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church
We also learned about the traditional grilling of eggplant on outdoor grills. This method has been used for years and any fires in these neighborhoods are referred to as eggplant fires.
The tour continued, after a ferry ride across the Golden Horn, and ride on the Tünel, an 1,880 foot underground funicular line, between Karaköy and Beyoğluto.
We then walked to the Pera Museum, where we ate lunch in their cafe. After lunch, we split into 2 groups – one to go to the Galata Tower; the other, to go into the Pera Museum. Ray went to the Tower, while Pat stayed at the Museum.
a model of the area around the Tower.
After meeting back up with the whole group at the Pera Museum, we visited the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua (St. Antuan Lilisesi).
We continued our outing, after the tour was concluded, by walking along Istiklal Caddesi, a major shopping street, until we reached Taksim Square. After drinks at Divan İstanbul Hotel, we headed back to our hotel, taking the subway.
Miscellaneous
There were two restaurants that some of us of went to twice – Adem Baba, in the Arnavutköy neighborhood, and House of Medusa Restaurant, in the Sultanahmet neighborhood. Both restaurants were very good and are recommended if you are in Istanbul.
Kadıköy Produce Market – Pat and I love going to local markets, when we travel. We were fortunate in be able to visit this market twice. The large selection of colorful olives was particularly interesting.
the freshness of the fish.
While in Kadıköy, we stopped at Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir – “Turkish Delight, or Lokum, is a traditional Middle Eastern confectionery made from starch and sugar, flavored with a variety of ingredients such as citrus, rosewater, and nuts. It is a chewy, lightly sweetened treat that is often served at room temperature and is an integral part of Turkish and Middle Eastern culture and tradition.” This chain of stores in Istanbul is the favorite of Gulcin and Phil, and they led us to several of the stores. Yum!
In our hotel and many restaurants, the beer of choice is Efes Pilsen. However, to expand our choices, we trammed and walked to Sanayi 1-A Beer Garden. It was recommended by Gulcin’s brother, who lives in Istanbul. Pat had a KUBAU More Than Gold IPA (Kubau Farm Brewery, Gelibolu Evreşe, Türkiye). I had a Red Ale – Experimental (Gara Guzu Brewery, Muğla, Türkiye). Both beverages were good, and a nice break from Efes. Besides the beers, we got to see a different part of the city, a bit less touristy and full of high end clothing stores.
Each listing includes the brewery name
and where it is located.
which have been added to our collection.
After the fun, everyone eventually made it home. Actually, nobody went directly home, everyone fanned out to other parts of the world. Pat an I flew back to Amsterdam for a week visit (will be covered in our next blog post), then back to Salt Lake City.
Ray and Pat, we do love the way you tell the stories of your (our in this case) trips. We had an amazing time in Istanbul and we want to have several versions of the Annual Singapore Alumni Book Club meetings!!!!