by On this trip our ultimate destination was Singapore for the 2nd International Singapore Book Club Alumni Meeting. Looking for flights to SG, we noticed that Delta had a direct flight to Inchon, South Korea with a partner flight on Korean Air to Singapore. We have always said that a long flight for 1 week doesn’t work for us, but if we can visit another country, either before or after, we will extend the trip.
Then we checked with our friends, Annelise and Gloverson, whom are also part of the book club, to see if they wanted to join us in South Korea. They did!
We all arrived on October 31. Because we came in at different times, we met at our hotel in Seoul, the Dormy Inn EXPRESS. The hotel is located in the Insadong neighborhood, and is close to many of the sites we wanted to see. Because it was late, and after dark, we decided to find a restaurant nearby. We went to Gangnam Myeonok Insadong – very good.
1 November (Saturday)
Today we have booked a visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) through Booking.com (Half-Day DMZ Tour Led by a Retired Military Officer from Seoul). Our guide SJ was Special Forces Major, an Iraq war veteran (707 Battalion) had spent part of his tour of duty in the DMZ. We walked to the subway station where we met the guide and the bus. The DMZ is about 2.5 hours from our hotel. On the way, SJ talked about his history and the history of the Korean war.
Our first stop was at Imjingak Pyeonghwa Nuri Park, just outside of the city of Paju. It was here where we got our first glimpse of the DMZ and saw the Mangbaedan Memorial Altar, a symbolic altar where separated families pay tribute to their ancestors in North Korea, facing north across the DMZ; the Bridge of Freedom railroad bridge, over the Imjin River, where 12,733 Korean War prisoners returned home in 1953; and the Steam Locomotive.
When we left the Park, we crossed the Imjin River on the Unification Bridge and headed into the South Korean DMZ. At both ends of the bridge are military posts where we had to stop while a soldier boarded the bus to confirm (and count) our passports. This was done in both directions.
Once in the DMZ, we stopped at the Dora Observatory, the northern-most point of the western front.
After the visit to the Dora Observatory, we went to one of the many tunnels the North Koreans had dug under the DMZ – specifically, we went to the Third Tunnel. When you enter the tunnel, you are issued a hard hat and required to wear it! Turns out that hard hat save my head several times, as the height of the tunnel was well short of my height and I hit the ceiling several times. When in the tunnel, I had to crouch the entire time – standing up was not an option.
We returned to Seoul where we had been picked by the bus, earlier this morning.
We had dinner at a Korean Barbeque, near our hotel. It was excellent!
2 November (Sunday)
We decided to have breakfast at the hotel – it was very good, and we went back the next morning as well. We generally avoid hotel breakfasts, choosing to explore the area around our hotels. Unfortunately, many times we have trouble finding a breakfast place that opens early. This was the case here. However, we were not disappointed with the food in the hotel.
After breakfast, we started walking toward the Changdeokgung Palace Complex. Along the we found a nearby park with a fascinating art installation.
Then got to the Changdeokgung Palace Complex.
The next place we walked to was Bukchon Hanok Village, a residential village with many traditional houses, called hanok. The main street was filled with tourists from around the world. Because of the areas popularity, they try to restrict tourists to only 10 AM to 5PM, the residents try to quiet the visitors. I wonder how successful these restrictions could be, after all, tourists are not easy to control.
From Hanok Village, we returned to the Changdeokgung Palace Complex to visit the Changdeokgung Secret Garden, which we had purchased tickets when we first arrived several hours ago. All entrance to the Secret Garden were timed. Not knowing what was to be seen, we lined up early, and waited until our time arrived – there was no need, as the garden is large and open, once inside.
As we were walking back to the hotel, while weaving through narrow streets and alleys, we found Craft Roo, a small crowded craft brewer. Of course we stopped in for a sample beer.
3 November (Monday)
After breakfast at the hotel, we began walking to the next palace on our agenda, the Gyeongbokgung Palace. Once again, we walked through the art installation we saw yesterday. A short distance from here was Gyeongbokgung Palace. The main gate to this site was the one we passed the night we arrived in Seoul, on our way to our hotel (see the photo at the top of this post). As we saw yesterday, there were many people dressed in traditional Korean fashion. Many of the attractions offer free admission to those people who rent costumes at local stores.
We stopped for lunch, then headed for the Jongmyo Shrine. On the way we stopped at the Ten-story Stone Pagoda of Wongaksa Temple Site located in Tapgol Park.
Our next destination was Gwangjang Market, where we sampled some food and purchased a couple of souvenirs. What a fun stop this was!
4 November (Tuesday)
Today, we are headed to Busan, so our first stop was Seoul Station to take the high-speed train to Busan. When we got to Busan, we stayed at the L7 HAEUNDAE hotel, near the beach.
Since we arrived at mid-day, we decided to go to Gwangjang Market and take the train from Mipo Station to Songjeong. This train follows the coast line and has a nice walkway along the entire route. After we reached the furthest point, we decide to walk part of the way, so we could stop at Cheongsapo Daritdol Skywalk, Haewol Observatory, and Dongbaek Park.
5 November (Wednesday)
After a morning walk on the beach, we checked out of the hotel and took a cab to Busan Station, where we put our luggage in lockers. Then we took another cab to Jagalchi Market, a famous seafood market. We wandered up and down many row of the stalls with seafood we had never seen before. It was then time for lunch, so we chose one stall that also had a restaurant on the second floor. We picked items that were then cleaned and cooked and sent up to the restaurant. What a fine lunch!
After lunch, it was another cab ride to Gamchen Culture Village. This hillside village was a refugee camp for North Koreans fleeing their country. Once the camp closed the city decided to revitalize it into an artsy neighborhood, perfect for tourists.
It was then time to return to Busan Station, pickup our luggage and take a train to Gyeongju, the ancient “capital city of the ancient kingdom of Silla (BCE 57-CE 935).” Here we checked into Hwangnamguan Hanok Village & Hotel, where, when we made our reservations, the only available rooms were “traditional” ones where we slept on mattress on the floor. It was for only one night, which was good, since I got little sleep.
After checking in to our hotel, and having dinner, we set out, after dark to find Woljeonggyo Bridge. It was well worth the walk. We returned the next day to see it again. It is more beautiful at night.
6 November (Thursday)
Today, we rented a motorized cart and went to Donggung Palace & Wolji Pond.
Then we drove to the Gyerim Forest and the Royal tomb of King Naemul (r. 356-402), the 17th ruler of the Silla Kingdom (57 BCE – 935 CE).
We returned to our hotel to checkout and pick up our luggage. However, before we left the hotel Gloverson and Annelise took advantage of the hotel’s collection of traditional costumes available to guests.
We then went to Gyeongju Station to take a train back to Seoul Station and then on to Incheon International (ICN), where we stayed overnight nearby. Early the next morning we flew to Singapore for our 2nd International Singapore Book Club Alumni meeting.
I visited Korea with a friend in 1974. at that time there existed only one big Hotel The Shogun. in the city there was only the Mainstreet with concrete. Our tour guide told us proudly that the President and the president of Korean Airlines had a Mercedes. Mostly bikes on the road. All side streets only soil. We took a roundtrip to Busan by bus and the very comfortable train.
Only two bigger department stores in Seoul.
We visited a open air village with dance and music. We loved it especially the music and the hats with the long strings men performed them.
We loved the food, but I got sick from having minced meat with garlic and could not join the visit of one temple. But our tour guide showed us all the remains of the palaces the Mongols destroyed. Even got us out of the bus by pouring rain just to see an empty field with some big stones. In a restaurant we where sitting at tables with wet tablecloth because of the rain the could not be dried outside. But I have good memories of that trip.
Before we flew to Seoul we had been in Tokyo (included with an earthquake in the middle of the night) and travelled by train to the countryside. Seoul was than a big difference after Tokyo and Hongkong. Have you been told about the Story of the Ginseng root? A bit cruel.
In the 90s my friend lived for 9 years in Seoul and it was a complete different city .Modern and exciting. Thank you for your report and the photos. Brings back some memories.
Thank you, Helga! Pat and I are pleased we were able to spark a nice memory for you. And, no, I haven’t heard about Ginseng, but will look it up.
We had a great time in Seoul. Reading about our trip made me smile and think: we are so lucky to have Ray and Pat as friends!!!!
Amazing trip with amazing company!