San Miguel de Allende, Mexico (March 2024)

Along with friends we had travelled with to Sweden and Norway, we decided to spend 2 weeks in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico in 2024. None of us had ever been there, but some of us knew friends who had. We flew in from Kansas City (MCI), Baltimore (BWI) and Salt Lake City (SLC), meeting at the Queretaro (QRO) airport, where we were met by a van that took us to San Miguel, a drive of about 50 miles.

Along with arranging for the transportation between the airport and San Miguel, our friend, Etarae, had led the effort to find an AirBnB for 3 couples. What a nice home we stayed in. There were 3 bedrooms (2 on the second floor and 1 on the third floor). The first floor, had a very nice indoor patio area, a large living room, kitchen, laundry and WC. Everyone spent lots of time in the patio (it was open to the sky, had a large circular table, where we often played games). The home was most comfortable. As the map of the central area of San Miguel shows, we were only a few blocks from the main square – Jardín Allende.

The entrance to our AirBnB from across the street (240305074114_PXL_20240305_134114123) — The entrance to our AirBnB from across the street

Looking North-West from the deck off our bedroom (240305065419_IMG_5734) — Looking North-West from the deck off our bedroom

From the deck outside our bedroom, we can just see the dome on Church of the Immaculate Conception (240305065409_IMG_5733) — From the deck outside our bedroom, we can just see
the dome on Church of the Immaculate Conception
(Templo de la Purísima Concepción)

On our top-floor deck (240305065442_IMG_5736) — On our top-floor deck

A plant on the deck outside our 3rd-floor bedroom (240305065452_IMG_5737) — A plant on the deck outside our 3rd-floor bedroom

Jardin Allende

This garden square is a busy gathering place in the center of San Miguel de Allende. We went there many times, during the day and in the evening, when groups of musicians competed for people’s attention (and donations). On three sides, the garden is home to restaurants, shops selling souvenirs, and banks/ATMs. It is also the site of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a “neo-Gothic 17th-century [Catholic] church known for its soaring pink spires & lofty, ornate sanctuary”.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a major attraction on the square (240305075537_PXL_20240305_135537336) — Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a major attraction on the square

This well groomed tree, in the grounds of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, is similar to the other trees in the square. (240305080555_PXL_20240305_140555494) — This well groomed tree, in the grounds of Parroquia
de San Miguel Arcángel, is similar to the other trees in the square.

The interior of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel (240305080649_IMG_5743) — The interior of Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

The alter in Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel (240305080836_PXL_20240305_140836410) — The alter in Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

On the square looking down the street we walked from our AirBnB (240305081350_PXL_20240305_141350824) — On the square looking down the street we walked from our AirBnB

Another build on the square (240305081308_PXL_20240305_141308849) — Another build on the square

The building on another side of the square (240305103216_DSC_0209) — The building on another side of the square

The tall figure is a Mojigangas, a large paper mache puppet (240305110059_IMG_5754) — The tall figure is a Mojigangas, a large paper mache puppet

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel (240305110108_PXL_20240305_170108166) — Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

A mariachi group serenades a tourist in the Jardin Allende (240306195641_PXL_20240307_01564106) — A mariachi group serenades a tourist in the Jardin Allende

Night view of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel (240306194118_PXL_20240307_014118096) — Night view of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

Taking a break while waiting for someone to play for (240306194700_PXL_20240307_014700539) — Taking a break while waiting for someone to play for

Fabrica la Aurora

We had to take 2 taxis to get to Fabrica la Aurora, since there were 6 of us. These arts and crafts galleries are in a former textile factory.

Music at Iglesia La Tercera Orden

Our friend Etarae’s brother, Les, whom we met on our trip to Patagonia in 2014, arranged for us to meet Malcolm Halliday, who invited us to meet him at Iglesia La Tercera Orden, a former convent, to see and hear an organ his group had purchased, and refurbished, and installed at this church. Prior to seeing and hearing the organ, he invited us to come early and listen to a young baritone who will be a soloist in an upcoming performance in an opera later in the month. What a wonderful time we had listening to the soloist’s practice. We also had an opportunity to talk to him after practice. Then, Malcolm told us about the organ and, before playing an organ composition, went through an explanation and demonstration of the various stops on the organ. Then he played a piece by Bach. The music filled the church. This was certainly one of the top 2 highlights of our trip.

Malcolm Halliday at the piano, accompanying an opera singer, during practice. (240313111319_PXL_20240313_171319645.MP_exported_1047) — Malcolm Halliday at the piano, accompanying
an opera singer, during practice.

To the left of the practice area is the organ we came to see and hear. (240313112301_PXL_20240313_172301032) — To the left of the practice area is
the organ we came to see and hear.

(240313112311_PXL_20240313_172311426.MP_exported_689)

(240313114252_PXL_20240313_174252349.MP_exported_0)

(240313114208_PXL_20240313_174208686.MP_exported_920)

Malcolm demonstrating the organ (240313114735_PXL_20240313_174735722) — Malcolm demonstrating the organ

This is where I sat, listening to the Bach organ cantata. Malcolm had said the acoustics of the church was excellent. So true. (240313115755_PXL_20240313_175755872) — This is where I sat, listening to the Bach organ cantata.
Malcolm had said the acoustics of the church was excellent.
So true.

A fountain in the convent interior garden (240313121434_PXL_20240313_181434133.MP_exported_84) — A fountain in the convent interior garden

Another view of the convent garden (240313121544_PXL_20240313_181544302.MP_exported_84) — Another view of the convent garden

Cañada de la Virgen – Archaeological Site

The other top highlight was a day trip to the archaeological site, Cañada de la Virgen.

Our guide, at the visitor center, explaining
what to expect when we head to the site.

As we get closer to the restricted area, we get more information

Just inside the gate, we get our first view of the central building

This Nopal Chamarauero is a parasitic relationship
between a cactus and a tree

This is the main structure, We are looking across a large enclosed area (240315113305_DSC_0276) — This is the main structure, We are looking across a large enclosed area

Ray decided he wanted to climb to the top of the larger side

Ray’s view back to the rest of the group

Ray’s view toward the Visitors’ Center (somewhere out there)

Pre-Easter Procession

On a side trip to Dolores Hidalgo, we stopped in the small village of Atotonilco, “… a traditional pilgrimage town dominated by the fortified, 18th-century Sanctuary of Atotonilco church.” (Google Maps). We visited the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco, not realizing this UNESCO site would be related to a pre-Easter procession, starting later that day (16 March) and ending the next morning (17 March) near where we were staying in San Miguel. Lonely Planet mentions this procession: “A journey to Atotonilco is the goal of pilgrims and penitents from all over Mexico, and the starting point of an important and solemn procession two weekends before Easter. Participants carry the image of the Señor de la Columna to the church of San Juan de Dios in San Miguel.“

The Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco (240316094816_PXL_20240316_154816858) — The Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco

Interior of the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco (240316101207_PXL_20240316_161207255) — Interior of the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco

Detail of a part of the ceiling in the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco (240316101134_PXL_20240316_161134344) — Detail of a part of the ceiling in the
Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco

Image of Señor de la Columna, the figure that will be carried in the procession to the church of San Juan de Dios in San Miguel de Allende (240316101249_PXL_20240316_161249933) — Image of Señor de la Columna, the figure that
will be carried in the procession to the church of
San Juan de Dios in San Miguel de Allende

Later that day, after we returned to San Miguel, we discovered people decorating a nearby street. We still didn’t realize this was related to what we had seen in Atotonilco. The decorations on the street were made of sawdust of different colors.

After asking around, we found this was preparation for the pre-Easter procession, and that the procession would start later in the day and arrive the next morning.

All night long, after midnight, we heard fireworks, so we got up before sunrise and headed down to the area we had seen being decorated. Turns out we were way early before the procession arrived.

This decoration marks where the procession will end next to the church of San Juan de Dios in San Miguel (240317053012_IMG_6033) — This decoration marks where the procession will end
next to the church of San Juan de Dios in San Miguel

Finally!

The Image of Señor de la Columna that we saw the previous
day at the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco

Aftermath…

This was the decoration in front of the church
of San Juan de Dios in San Miguel

Barrio de Guadalupe Street Art

Looking at Atlas Obscura, which we usually do when traveling, we saw an article about Barrio de Guadalupe Street Art, and decided to explore that neighborhood.

Day of the Dead Parade

One day we finished lunch and turned a corner to see a parade of wildly-dressed, costumed dancers making their way down one of the main streets of town.